POLISHING
JASPER
Jasper is much more troublesome to
polish than agate because many varieties are "earthy" and porous and
others contain hematite, which in itself is difficult to
polish. If you are on a field trip, a good way to test for jasper is
to wet it. If is absorbs the water and dries rapidly, throw it away. It
will not polish. If it stays wet and does not dry right away, it
contains a high amount of chalcedony and will take a good polish. Most
jaspers polish well on leather with linde
A, but good results can be obtained with tin oxide on either
leather or felt. Always remember that a good fine
sanding job is the secret of good polishing.
From Golden Spike News
Authocunknown
GOLD SHEEN: To get the most out of mahogany gold sheen obsidian, saw
with the bands, as if they were a stack of plates, and you wish to
unstuck them. Watch for "fire spots" in gold sheen. It is not plentiful,
but opal like colors do sometimes occur in mahogany gold sheen.
IRIDESCENT: There are two types of iridescent obsidian. In
cutting both correctly, the orientation of the color is most
important. One type of obsidian is banded and the color lies in the
bands. On the unbanded types of obsidian the surface has to be chipped
to find the color. The banded type will have several colors or shades,
while the unbanded types will have only one color. Cut
the banded material parallel to the bands to get effect. To get a
rainbow effect, cut the stone at an approximately 15-degree angle across
the bands.
MIDNIGHT LACE: Lace-patterned obsidian should be cut
across the surface pattern that you desire to reproduce. Although
obsidian is comparatively soft, it is still very important to sand away
all scratches before going to polish.
Some advise that wet sanding be done, since obsidian is heat sensitive
and very brittle. For final
polish, felt with cerium
oxide is the choice. Should you be faceting some particularly gemmy
obsidian try cerium
oxide on Lucite@, but keep it wet.
RAINBOW OBSIDIAN: Cut
parallel to flow layers. These can be seen by examining fractured
surfaces using an overhead single lamp bulb. As [the layers] are not
always straight, it may be necessary to turn the stone slightly in the
saw. Examine each slab set with either water or saw oil to see if the
correct angle has been obtained.
SAFETY TIP: After obsidian is sawed,
be sure to bevel the
edges all around on your fine
grinding wheel to keep them from flaking and chipping. Wear goggles
or glasses at all times. If a small chip of glass ( obsidian) got into
your eye, it would be hard to remove as it is transparent and hard to
see even with a powerful magnifying glass, and the edges may cut your
eye to a great extent before it could be removed. GRINDING
OBSIDIAN CABS: Approach yourgrinding wheel with the material at a
slight horizontal angle. If brought straight in, it may be a
"shattering" experience, as obsidian fractures conchoidally and this is a
sure way to do it. POLISH
ON OBSIDIAN: Keep the polishing wheel wet. A dry polishing will
result in blisters and scratches. Obsidian is relatively inexpensive,
easy to obtain and soft. With proper understanding of its glassy
properties you can obtain some beautiful results.
-from Golden Frog, February 2005 Via The Rock Collector October, 2009
Via Strata Gem, November 2009