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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:30 PM under
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Hints and Tips
Denim: Did you know that denim iron-on patches make excellent polishing disks? They win adhere to surfaces when ordinary glues will not Obtain the largest ones you can fit to your wheel disks and cut to fit. Source: Rock Writing, 5/2006, via Blue Agate News, 2/08
Same Size Cabs: Need two cabs of exactly the same size? Glue two slabs together with paper between them. Cut to size. Separate by soaking in water. Source: Rockhound Rambling, 1~, via Blue AgateNews, 2!08
To polish silver: Its amazingly simple! I usually use a pyrex (glass) dish and line it with aluminum foil, because then I can either toss out or recycle the foil. An aluminum pan would work as well... or even better. I wouldn't use it for cooking later, though. Fill the container with hot water and toss in about Y4 cup of baking soda. Stir to dissolve and place yo u r silver pieces in the bath, in contact with the aluminum. Leave it for awhile, then pull the pieces out and rinse. Ta-da! Seems overly simple, but irs reasonably effective and totally harmless to people and the environment. Source: The Rockorder ,10102, via Blue Agate News, 2/08
Working Turquoise: In shaping turquoise, it is advisable to use only the 220 wheel rather than the coarser ones. The 100 grit wheel will take desirable material from such a soft stone. Some of the more friable and chalky types of turquoise are difficult to polish with cerium or tin oxide; by a mus/in buff with stick rouge. Since it is such a porous stone, oil may discolor it, so try sawing with a water coolant after soaking overnight in water. This helps prevent breaking . From The pegmatite 12181 via Blue Agate News 03108
Cabochon Storage: Keep polished cabochons in photo-slide protector pages. The pages fit in a 3-ring binder and each page has 20 individual pockets. The cabs are easily visible, but are protected. Coin collector sheets also work well. From Rock Chips O!ilD4 via Strata Gems 02108
Fossil Preservation: After cleaning, paint the fossil with diluted Elmer's glue (1/2 water). It dries fast and makes the fossil look sharp and clean. Because it is water soluble, it can also b washed off with water. From Chips & nps via Del Air Bulletin 03108 (AB the above hints are from Strata Gems, May and June 2010) Same Size Cabs: Need two cabs of exactly the same size? Glue two slabs together with paper between them. Cut to size. Separate by soaking in water. Source: Rockhound Rambling, 1~, via Blue Agate News, 2!08
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:27 PM under
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What Are Minerals?
Minerals are defined as naturally occurring solid substances made of a regular, repeating arrangement of atoms and molecules. A mineral represents a highly ordered atomic arrangement and is formed by inorganic processes. Mineral deposits are located mostly in rock, unless they are moved from their point of origin to some other location by wind, rain or some other natural event. There are 92 types of naturally occurring atoms, which are called chemical elements. These elements combine in various ways to make over 3,500 known minerals. However, only twelve elements, and fewer than one hundred minerals are relatively abundant. The eight most abundant elements in order of decreasing abundance are: oxygen, silicon, aluminum, iron magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium. Scarce elements like copper and gold occur in rare minerals and are, therefore, valuable. Minerals are grouped by their chemical composition. The six following common mineral groups consist of pure elements and one of the six respective compounds: metal and oxygen (oxides); silicon and oxygen (silicates); carbon and oxygen (carbonates); metals and sulfur (sulfides); sulfur and oxygen (sulfates); and fluorine chlorine or bromine (halides). Minerals can also be grouped by their crystal shapes. There are six basic geometrical ways atoms and molecules are arranged in a crystal. These six arrangements are called the six crystal systems. Minerals belonging to the same crystal system not only have similar outward appearances but also share similar properties. Some minerals are very colorful, making them attractive to collectors. Of these, many are fragile and can fall apart or turn into powder once they are removed from their natural environment. Atmospheric gases of cities, higher humidity, or a drier climate can cause minerals to significantly change in color, structure and form. Other minerals can fluoresce, or glow in the dark, when ultraviolet light strikes them. A very plain looking rock can contain minerals that show beautiful colors of red, yellow, orange, or blue when placed under an ultraviolet light. Good examples to try are diamonds, gypsum, fluorite, scapolite, calcite, or amber. Source: The Milling Industry and Minerals, published by National Energy Foundation, 1992, revised May 1994, Via Rockhound Ramblings, September 2007
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:25 PM under
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Mohs Scale
1. Talc -Hardness 1-2 can be scratched by a fingernail. 2. Gypsum -Hardness 2-3 can be scratched by a copper coin. 3. Calcite -Hardness ~ can be scratched by a steel pocket knife. 4. Fluorite 5. Apatite 6. Orthoclase- Hardness 6-7 will not scratch glass. 7. Quartz 8. Topaz -Hardness 8--10 will scratch glass. 9. Corundum 10. Diamond The Mohs scale is a standard of 10 minerals by which the hardness of a mineral is rated. It was introduced in 1812 by the German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs (1773-1839). The minerals are arranged from softest to hardest Harder minerals, with higher numbers, can scratch those with a lower number. Diamond is the ultimate gemstone, having few weaknesses and many strengths. It is well known that Diamond is the hardest substance found in nature, but few people realize that Diamond is four times harder than the next hardest natural mineral, corundum (sapphire and ruby). But even as hard as it is, it is not impervious. Diamond has four directions of cleavage, meaning that if it receives a sharp blow in one of these directions it wiD cleave, or split A skilled diamond setter and/or jeweler wiU prevent any of these directions from being in a position to be struck while mounted in a jewelry piece. As a g e m s t o n e , Diamond's single flaw ( perfect cleavage) is far outdistanced by the sum of its positive qualities. It has a broad color range, high refraction high dispersion or fire, very low reactivity to chemicals, raritY, and of course, extreme hardness and durability. Diamond is a polymorph of the element carbon. G r a p h i t e is another polymorph. The two share the same chemistry, carbon, but have very different structures and properties. Diamond is hard, Graphite is soft (the "lead" of a pencil). Diamond is an excellent electrical insulator, Graphite is a good conductor of electricity. Diamond is the ultimate abrasive, Graphite is a very good lubricant. Diamond is transparent, Graphite ispaque. Diamond crystallizes in the Isometric system and graphite crystallizes in the hexagonal system. Somewhat of a surprise is that at surface temperatures and pressures, Graphite is the stable form of carbon. In fact, all diamonds at or near the surface of the Earth are currentfy undergoing a transformation into Graphite. This reaction, fortunately, is extremely slow. From www .aalleries. com/minerals/elementskliamond/diamond. htrn via Strata Gem JunelJuly 2010 Mohs Scale
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:22 PM under
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Are You a New Rockhound?


What to do? -Have you decided yet? If you're a new rockhound you may be confused by the many phases of our hobby. Do you wonder just, which Earth Science suits you best? Perhaps a little vocational guidance will help you make up your mind...
THE HOARDER: Are you a hoarder at heart? Are your closet" attic and basement bulging at the seams with things you just can't bear to part with? If the answer is yes, I suggest you become a MINERAL COLLECTOR. WARNING-be sure you have at least one empty room before you start, because you won't be able to part with any of your collection and it will grow at an alarming speed.) if you are an apartment dweller, try collecting miniatures, and if your hacienda has only one room to hang your hat, micromounts are the thing for you. If you have a pack-rat personality, you can enjoy collecting beautiful minerals and crystals no matter how limited your space. THE PERFECTIONIST: Are you a perfectionist? Do you admire the perfect shape and beautiful color? If so, you're a born LAPIDARY. No lop-sided cabochons for you! They will all come out with perfect contours and you can be sure your cab, will have a mirror-like polish every tjrne. UKENUMBERS? Are you good at mathematics? Do you have the touch of a gentle breeze? May I suggest you try FACETING? This is one hobby where, a mind with a mathematical flair can whiz through a set of angles that would baffle a lesser genius. The results are probably more spectacular than of any other 'facets' of our hobby. HOW ABOUT VARIETY? Do you find it hard to stick to one thing for very long? May I suggest NOVEL TIES? You can try polishing flats and then use them for pen bases Try cab, and if you tire of them, make a picture out of them. Try a sphere and if you never get beyond the pre-form stage, make it into a paperweight.
Do you think leftovers taste better than the original dish? Then I suggest TUMBLING for you. Just pick up all the leftover rocks around the house and put them into the tumbler. You'll be surprised what comes out! OR, are you like a child on Christmas morning? For you, I suggest FLUORESCENTS. Each time you look over your collection, you will recapture the beauty of a lighted Christmas tree. Do you keep a diary? Are you fascinated by history and the records of past life on this planet? You are the one to collect FOSSILS. You will find a wonderful pastime and sermons in bones, collecting the remains of these past earthlings. Seriously, there are so many avenues to explore in the earth sciences. In addition, there's CARVING, JEWELRY MAKING and WEEKEND FIELD TRIPS, all worth a try! You would be wise to investigate them all until you find one (or several) that suits you best HAYE FUN AND GOOD LUCK!

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From ESCOMO, 11/87; via The Rock-lt, 10/09 Via The Rock Collector November, 2009 Via Strata Gems, May 2010
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:20 PM under
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Building A Mineral Collection by David F. English

When I choose a mineral specimen, either when I am trading or when I am buying, I find the following ideas give me a feeling of success. First, I try to buy specimens that are not damaged. What is "damage"? Look for chips and places where the mineral has been banged up. Look allover the specimen. If the damage is hidden on the back of the specimen, it may not be a big deal. But, if the damage is on a crystal face or edge that is right in front, you may want to choose a different one. Second, remember that this is your collection. The goal is to choose the specimen that looks good to you. This is Y.Q!:!!: collection. Collect the minerals that you enjoy. What looks good to you may not look great to another collector. That doesn't matter. What matters is that you are happy with your choice. Third, you will have to learn by reading and by experience. The more you know about minerals, the more you will be able to identify a higher quality specimen. I find that a high price does not always mean the specimen is better. One year I saw magnetite crystals for $30 on one table, and larger, better crystals for $10 on another! Study mineral books, visit shows, go to mineral museums. ThC'.-='fure you see and learn, the more expert you will become. Good luck building your collection. I hope you will find it to be a rewarding experience. From the 7/07 Mini Miners Monthly via Pick & Pack, 7/07 The same specimen with damage (right).
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:15 PM under
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Swarf And How to Tame It.
Swart is that milky liquid you get when you cut cabochons or facet stones. Although it appears to be harmless, swart can be deadly to your plumbing system and lapidary equipment if not handled properly. When you grind rocks to make cabochons or faceted stones, you're removing tiny bits of the rock and carrying them away from your work with water. When the water evaporates, the tiny rock bits are left behind as a sort of concrete gunk. Over time, this gunk will harden like concrete. So how do you tame the swart? Never, never, ever, dispose of your swart in your plumbing system. Don't pour it down a sink or toilet because eventually that gunk will harden and eventually narrow your pipes. Because it's concrete-like when hardened, it will be almost impossible to remove! Instead, take your swart outside to a non-important part of your garden and dump it there -or if there is no garden handy, allow the swart to settle in the bottom of a bucket for a day or two, then carefully pour off the now clear water, and scoop out the swart, put it in a plastic bag and toss it in the trash. From Gem Cutters News, Nov 1984 via AFMS Newsletter, Oct 2007
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 3:09 PM under
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BEASTS OF BURDEN
 
Three animals are outstanding examples of the Beast of Burden class: the mule, the camel, and the simple-minded rockhound.The mule is smart -put one pound more than his usual load on him, and he simply balks until it is removed. The camel is even more decided in his ideas -try overloading him and he'll stay in the sand, and if you persist, will spit his cud at you. But that simple-minded rockhound? He takes 15 to 20 pounds of equipment in with him, then tries to load on about 50 to 60 pounds of rock and carry it back to the car on the road. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Via Quarry Quips 9/10, via BEMS Tumbler 7/10, via Conglomerate, 3/09; via The Rockpile, 2/09; from The TTown Rockhound, 11/08, via Rocky Mountain News, 10/10
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 2:58 PM under
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ARE DIAMONDS FOREVER?

Diamond is the hardest substance known, but diamonds are not indestructible. Throughout history, people have confused hardness and toughness. One old belief was that if you placed a diamond on an anvil and struck it with a hammer, the hammer and anvil would shatter. Actually, hardness is the resistance to scratching while toughness is the resistance to breaking. Hardness and toughness are both related to crystal structure. It is impossible to scratch a diamond, but diamonds can be chipped or broken. Occasionally diamonds break during cutting or setting. They may also break or chip if they are knocked against a hard object. Diamonds are considered very durable gems; some have recorded histories spanning centuries. At various times in the past, gem traders have reportedly used the hammer and anvil myth to dupe miners. When offered diamonds, the traders were said to have shattered the stone to demonstrate that they were not diamonds. After the disappointed miners left, the traders picked up the pieces and sold them. Even to this day the confusion between hardness and toughness continues; many people cannot understand why their diamond broke when they dropped it down the garbage disposal or when a stone is struck a hard blow. Diamonds should always be checked for damage after they have hit against a hard object. A damaged diamond can be repaired by re-cutting the stone. Ret:. BEMS Tumbler 3106; via The Quany, 6-7/00; via The Rock collector, 5100; via The Cowtown Cutter, 4/00; from The Rock Rattler, 6192, via Golden Spike News, 09/10
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 2:52 PM under
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Ant Hills And Animal Burrows (Author Unknown) SCFMS Newslette

One of the least know methods of finding mineral specimens is also one of the easiest, and many times one of the most productive. It consists of inspecting and testing the material that ants and other animal life bring to the surface of the earth. Ants, gophers, prairie dogs, moles, etc. , are very busy miners, and they move a tremendous amount of dirt and rock to the surface. Some ants, for example, tunnel to the depth of fifteen feet, and a single ant nest can consist of a labyrinth of tunnels and passages and rooms going to a depth of fifteen feet and spread over more than an acre. Some excellent gemstones have been found in anthills, especially red gemstones. Above from Gem City Rock News 11199, via The Stone Chipper07/03 Via Golden Spike News June 2010, via Strata Gem 10/10
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 2:45 PM under
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The f uture of Our Collections by Jeff Self and Donna Ware   Friends of Mineralogy Colorado Chapter Preservation Committee One of the most overlooked, even ignored, aspects of mineral collecting is what happens to our collections after we are gone. What to us is a treasure to be studied, admired, even gloated over may be perceived by our heirs or the executor of our estates as no more than annoying dusty rocks, taking up space and cluttering up the place. We need to be aware that we are custodians for our collections and plan ahead for their future. We have personally climbed into dumpsters to rescue collections destined for the nearest landfill. These pieces were not thrown away out of spite but because they were seen as Granddad's (Grandma's) dusty boxes of rocks. Unfortunately Granddad had left no instructions for his family as to what to do with his collection. They had no idea of the value of the pieces, scientifically, financially or otherwise. The specimens had no labels with them to identify them or show where they came from. To the uninitiated they were only clutter to be disposed of. One of the first points to be considered to help protect our pieces is labeling. A well labeled specimen is less likely to be thrown out and is far more valuable than an unlabeled one. On the back of the label you might want to write how much the piece cost and the date of purchase. This makes it easier for others to realize these pieces should be dealt with appropriately. For self collected pieces an approximate value should be recorded as well. The next step to be considered is the disposition of the collection. What happens to our treasures when we are gone? If you leave the collection to a museum there are several things to consider. Museums do not have a lot of space to store material. They tend to take the pieces they are most interested in and dispose of the rest. If a museum is to inherit the collection be sure to give them permission to do with it as they see fit. That way they can add the appropriate pieces to their collection then sell the rest in their gift shop and/or trade for specimens they are attempting to acquire. This enriches and improves the museum. Be sure to talk to the curator of minerals at your museum of interest and see if they would be amenable to this. Many of your more common specimens can be given to schools to help educate children about minerals. Small quartz crystals, feldspars, -The Future of Our Collections calcites, etc., are always needed by schools. The U.S. Geological Survey often has need of just such pieces that they give out in teacher kits. Also many mineral clubs make Grab Bags for kids and they are always looking for more small pieces. Another thing to consider is family and friends. Is there anyone you would like to have "caretake" any of your pieces? Give this a great deal of thought. Some people may seem like they would be good candidates but they may only be saying what you wish to hear. Do they truly love the minerals or do they just love you and will say anything you wish to hear. "Gee these rocks are really neat". Another issue is the matter of perceived value. We once were asked to evaluate some pieces from an estate that a nephew was wanting for himself. The rest of the I family wanted anything he got to be taken out of his share of the estate. They believed the pieces he wanted must be incredibly valuable. The true value was far below the "wow" price. If the pieces had purchase prices on the back of the labels it would have saved everyone involved a lot of heartache. Do not forget anyone you may have been working with when you found some of the specimens. (self collected). Be sure any and all bequests are mentioned in Ithe will. A verbal agreement may not be enough. Another option is to leave instructions to sell the collection (or part of it) to a reputable mineral dealer. Many Idealers do buy collections. Consider leaving a list of mineral dealers who may be interested in your collection. i Mineral dealers do have to make a profit so the price offered will be quite a bit below the full retail value. But this does tend to deal with the entire collection in one fairly painless transaction. Or you can deal with part or all of the collection while you are still around. While this may not be an option for some due to the unhappiness not having the pieces would cause, this may be the simplest solution. You would get to enjoy the look on the faces of your friends and family when you give them the piece or pieces you wish them to have. You can give pieces to a museum and enjoy the pride of having given to them. There is also the possibility of selling the collection yourself. Possibly by setting up as a mineral dealer. However the cost of doing shows can be prohibitive, a large investment in time and money. Sale to a mineral dealer may still be the best option. You might be able to take that money and have the vacation you always wanted. These points are applicable to more than just minerals. Anything we collect should be considered as well: Books, antiques, mining memorabilia, family heirlooms, etc. Anything we care for and enjoy should have some thought put into its disposition. from Colorado Mineral Society -Mineral Minutes, August 2010
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Posted by Earl L. Goad and Teri A. Drost on January 25, 2011 at 9:42 AM under
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Cleaning Mineral Specimens

Mineral Specimens may be poisonous under certain conditions or when mixed with cleaners. Never heat cinnabar or stibnite. They produce poisonous gases. When in doubt about how to clean a mineral specimen always consult a professional. Here is a list of rules to use when cleaning with chemicals: .Use chemicals that are clearly labeled and store chemicals that are clearly labeled. .Keep a large container of clear water handy to wash off any chemical spills. .ALWAYS wear safety goggles & rubber gloves. .Don't work alone. .Avoid splattering- .Never pour water into acid, always add acid to water. .Keep an ample supply of baking soda handy for acid spills- .Keep an ample supply of vinegar for alkali spills. .Rinse specimens well. Remember some minerals are damaged by chemicals or can be dissolved by liquids. Some methods may work on one type of mineral and not on another. Now to cleaning... I always start with dish soap and warm water. If that doesn't work then I use other chemicals. You can use oxalic acid to clean iron stains from minerals such as Tips quartz. Use it 1 cup oxalic granular to 1 gallon of water. It works best when warm. The hotter it is the better it works. This is also true of its fumes and vapors! Do not breathe the vapors. Hydrofluoric acid is the strongest acid there is. Do not use this unless you know what you are doing. It can cause serious injury or death. Hydrochloric acid can be used to dissolve carbonate minerals and deposits. A 5% to 10% solution is more than enough to do the job. The fumes from this acid can cause pneumonia, care should be taken when using it. Always make sure you have adequate ventilation. One of my favorite chemicals to clean with is Lime- a-way@ or CLR@. They remove oxidation from most minerals include pyrite, arsenopyrite, & galena. You can use them straight from the bottle on a very soft cloth. To clean oxidation off of native metals copper or silver) the best thing to use is a copper or silver polish and a soft cloth. I once used a bottle of nitric acid to clean a large copper specimen and could not get the last little bit of oxidation off and a good friend (who happens to be a chemist) suggested a good copper polish. It worked better than the nitric acid. Nitric acid will clean copper well, but should be used with great care as the fumes become nitric gas and can overpower a person very fast. Even small amounts can cause pneumonia. Always do a test run in an inconspicuous place first. Here are some specific ways to clean certain minerals: .Barite can be cleaned w~ strong solution of hydrochloric acid (30%). .For pyrite or marcasite, use oxalic acid, hydrochloric acid, Lime-away @ or CLR@. .For the following you can try any acid except hydrofluoric acid: quartz, feldspar, labradorite, hornblende, tourmaline, & tremolite or any silicate mineral. .Water soluble minerals, like the salts and sulfur, use only ethyl alcohol to clean. .Ammonia or bleach can be used to clean lichens or algae off. Soaking any mineral in any solution can cause the luster to disappear. When soaking a specimen, do it for only a few seconds at a time until you see how fast it is coming clean. Some minerals may require a few seconds to weeks in an acid. (Disclaimer: Information is provided as a guide only. Please follow instructions of any cleaning product you use, as well as common sense!) Reprinted from www.rocks4u.com via Sedonia Red Rocking News, Jan 2010 Via Quarry Quips July 2010 Via Strata Gem 10/10
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